Jackie O. That is all.

So, I'm the type of gal to wear pearls with blue jeans.  Yes, that is true.  Really, if you've read anything on here then it shouldn't be a shock.  Thus, my saying I made a Jackie O style coat . . . well, before you raise your eyebrow and say "Hey, that ain't what you normally wear," remember the pearls and jeans.  

Thus, I made a Jackie O.  And I wore it with jeans.  Faded, should be retired, jeans.  And Converse kicks.  And a wool knit tee.  

Yea. I redefine classy.  

That was me on an Instagram shot.  Snazzy, I know.  

I mean, look at that . . . isn't she a beauty? That coat, fits like a dream.  Of course, I wore it open all day as it was almost too warm for it . . . but it being NYC and fall, well . . . yea, coat one minute, the next half naked.  Repeat all day.  

My hair decided to go '90s retro and pretend my grunge days of Nirvana love were in town.  Ignore the unruly mane today.  

I had a short-sleeved tee on underneath, and with the "heat" it made things stick a little.  But . . . later in the day, as I wasn't sweating machetes there was no pull or stick, as this wool and silk beauty slide off and on like butter.  

So, the pattern is the Colette Anise Jacket, version two with long sleeves.  The alterations: my bat wings* needed extending so the sleeves are cut at a size 18, with a 14 arch, and the body is at a 14. Surprisingly, I did not have to add taper to my hips.  For that fact alone I call this one a win.  It is a win for many reasons . . . but, that . . . 

The pattern called for eight buttons.  Well, I inherited some buttons, these black metal on metal vintage ones, and since I only had six I adjusted the middle and lower positions to suit my needs.  Did it work? You tell me.  I think six buttons is just fine! I sewed those buttons on with coat button thread, so--ya know--they will stick like glue. 

This make is a pretty straightforward sew.  Though, to make it spectacular it really comes down to the details inside.  Follow me along.

The pattern notes to use weft interfacing.  Do.  Don't be cheap and use standard fusible.  Why? Weft will give your jacket enough weight to hold its shape, and it drape with be subtle to make the coat flow with your body.  I've been getting mine from Fashion Sewing Supply, as they are great quality, a small business, and *ahem* affordable!

Let's just say I am making a proper winter coat this year, and in November (when I post and blather) I'll give you the blow by blow of why the last coat was a fail.  Don't get me wrong, it was good last year.  This year . . . in short, I put it on and sweet baby Jesus it was too big and needed a bonnet to send me back to the prairie 

Underline it with muslin (yo, pre-wash and dry your muslin, like anything else!).  It is a short coat, and the muslin A) gives shape and B) gives another layer of warmth come the days of Old Man Winter.  The muslin, and weft, make the coat lie on your body and not hang on your body.  A hanging coat often gets fold lines across it.

Shoulder pads, half inch past the shoulder/sleeve seam.  That is what makes the crisp shoulder.  Yea, you just tried on a RTW coat and now hate your coat? Sorry.  Not sorry.

Sleeve caps.  That's where the piece of plaid comes into play . . . All I did was cut a piece to the cap of my sleeve pattern, five inches down, and then take my pinking shears and slightly arch it on the bottom end.  The pinking shears prevent the fabric from showing as a seam line per se.  The sleeve cap helps keep your sleeve upright and not cave into your arm.  Again, once you use a sleeve cap you will never stop.  You'll be walking up the block, heading to the subway, catch your shoulder in the corner of your eye and be all, "Damn, that shoulder seam looks goooood!"  Oh wait, that's just me.

All those basting stitches along the collar? That's to the keep the collar from rolling as you sew.  You take them out when done, which seams like a waste, but in the end if you don't do it you will most likely have a slightly askew collar.  This is one of those subtle things that you do a tailored jacket or coat.  It is really subtle, but when it is combined with all of the other perks the notice factor comes through in a really refined piece.

I use scrap thread, leftover bits on spools and bobbins of colors I won't use again, if ever or for years.  It also makes the stitches easy to find to pull out.

As I said, I lined her with silk.  Ah . . . silk.  It really is as lovely as it seams.  If you look close the polka dots are slightly variegated in shade.  Meaning they are faded in some spots.  When I bought the fabric, at Mood, the clerk was surprised when I said it was fine.  Why? I tend to think those dots were meant to be a bit faded in spots.  Besides, it gives my coat a nice little happenstance vintage touch.  

I hand stitched the black wool hem, then hand picked the silk hem to the black wool, and . . . the sleeve linings are set in by hand.  Yea, I could have bagged the lining--like RTW--but . . . 

Really, look at that . . . it is gorgeous.  Feels just as lovely.  Seriously, though, there is something about knowing just how much work went into this piece.  It is a plain, and simple, basic . . . yet, the fit and touches make it more than a staple.  It is a stand alone classic, versatile, and captures a bit of beauty on its own.  

Yes, I really love my coat.  Judge my overly public affection for it later. 

Me and my hand picking needles got friendly, and I do recommend using a cutting mat beneath the coat.  Why? It keeps the coat from sliding around on your table.  

Another look, from a photo I went a little artsy on . . .oh well.  Yea, those are chalk lines . . . the wipe away with a damp cloth.  

Things I would change next time: I would lengthen it four inches (which would require more buttons), I would do bound button holes (maybe), and . . . maybe add some side seam pockets.  Though, I kinda like the pockets as they are.  

I have a blazer, that I promised from the orange muslin pic, but I'm waiting on my horse hair interfacing . . . yea, I've gone down the tailoring rabbit hole.  I have a vision for leftover coating--from last year's--and teal leather elbow patches.  A teal silk lining.  Upside, the silk will be so nice I could wallow naked in it.  

And for every shit ball photo I give you a great one.

From my run last night, for which I upchucked.  Yea, thank you Lupus and Plaquenil.  While the plaq maintains the pain, it still has a succubus factor.

*Bat wings= I got a blood transfusion a few years back, and in my drug induced haze I draped my blanket like a cape and flapped my arms like a bat.  The nurses nearly peed themselves.