A Zipper Install and a Bag on the side.

Not long ago it seams I found myself having more than one conversation on the simplicity and relative ease of making little stash bags, as I call them.  I tend to make these up pretty regular, as there are always scraps lying around.  Of course I make them and people swipe them , so it all works out I guess. Also, I had a stash of zippers that worked perfect here, and  . . . it is nice to change your makeup bag in your purse.  How often do we change purses and not that bag? Or not even wash it? Washing it . . . that is also easier when you have a new bag to put your goods into while sudsing the other up.

Also, someone I know has never made a bag.  She's made bras, jeans, etc. but not bag.  I won't throw her under the public bus (but I did just email her this link), but I do hope she makes a bag for her purse now.  ;)

These bags, well . . .

Yup, the contents of my bag.  The blue tin: my sewing kit.  The red bag: lady stuff.  Yes, everyone needs an emergency does of Day Quil (FYI, I have a smaller container that I keep Advil and allergy tabs in . . . even though they would fit in here).  Now that we've gotten personal with the contents of my makeup bag, come along for the other side of this post.  

In the course of those conversations, the subject came up again (and again) on how to make them.  Since, well, they aren't hard and zipper have a bad rap I decided to share some love.  Here, we have a zipper tutorial that comes with the bonus of a finished product.  And, if you look close a second skill sneaked in  . . . boxed corners.  Since I have pattern half a snap away from completion, here's a preview of things to come (and a quick DIY to boot).  

So, without further ado find yourself a glass of good wine and follow along.  

Making said bag.  

Skills learned:

Basic zipper install
Gusset corners (!)

Needs:

Scrap fabric (quilting cotton, denim, twill, home dec)
Zipper
Zipper foot
Edge foot
Coordinating thread
fusible interfacing (medium weight . . . if using denim, home dec, or other heavy weight fabric omit the interfacing)
Ruler
Chalk
Shears
Pins
Sewing machine
A glass of wine (I'm a fan of these guys.  They have a line of fruit wines that will, well, delight your tastebuds in the most delightful way.)

I used two scraps of quilting cotton.  The pink leftover from PJs and the blue . . . from a bag I made for myself this past summer.  Oh, later on you see scraps of pink peace signs . . . left over from Lakesids PJs I made this year.

My zipper is eleven inches, thus I cut my fabric 11 by 9 inches.  

What you want is a rectangle that is as long as your zipper and deep enough for your hand (in a fist) plus two inches past your wrist.  Okay, that's really just how I do it so that A) I can get my hand in the bag without scratching myself, B) fit my crap in there, and C) have a makeup bag that still fits in my purse, tote, backpack, overly large hangbag/carry-on on flights . . . 

Thus, if you have a nine inch zipper you could cut your fabric 9 by 8, 9 by 9 (for a square), 9 by 11 (a deep bag), or 9 by 5 for a shallower version.  

So, for here:

A) Cut, Cut.  Press, Press.  

Two rectangles from the outside fabric and two from the lining fabric.  11 by 9 each. 

Two rectangles from the fusible interfacing.  

Now, press the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the outside fabric.  The peebles are the sticky part, and they kiss the wrong side of the fabric.  I use Pellon, and with that and quilting cotton my iron is nearly always set on high/cotton.  

Next up, the zipper.  This is actually the real point of this tutorial.  Zippers aren't as hard as you think.  

B) Zip you up

First, place the zipper right side down on the right  side of the outside fabric.  Your zipper will be on the edge that is the same length.  Pin in place to prevent sliding.  

Next, put your zipper foot on your machine . . . save yourself the headache, and just use the zipper foot.  Remember to move your needle to the corresponding position.  You want to sew parallel to the zipper teeth, so for this one I moved my needle to the left.  Look close, you can see grooves on both sides of the foot. 

Those are so you can move the needle to the left or right to install a zipper.  

Tip: align the outer edge of your zipper foot to the edge of your zipper and fabric.  This trick will help you from sewing too close to the teeth, causing you to have a stiff, jammed, or outright unusable zipper.  

Stitch.  I use a 2.5 stitch here.  You can use a three, but I wouldn't recommend longer as you want a sturdy seam able to handle daily use and zips.  

Back-stitch at each end.  When you turn the zipper to the inside (i.e the wrong side of the fabric) it starts to look like something you recognize! 

I recommend some of that wine now.  Though, the day I made these I was on my way to the airport, and it was 10 am.  I generally avoid day drinking, but  . . . we won't judge if you do though.  ;)

Repeat step B, sewing the zipper tape to the other side.  Your pieces will look like this:

C) Lining install. 

Here, place the right side of the lining on top of the wrong side of the zipper.  Here, you will have the wrong side facing out, with the zipper sandwiched inside.  Pin.  Now, flip the cloth over, and sew along the line you just made when stitching the zipper to the outside piece.  You will have just sewn all three pieces together.  Have some more of that wine. 

Here: all three layers pinned.  

Tip: flip the pins to the top piece of your fabric (so that you don't accidentally sew over them). Avoid sewing over pins as it can, and will, throw the timing of your machine out.  Ask me how I know?

Seriously, sewing over a stitch line . . . doesn't it feel like cheating? Take joy in the little rebel moments.  

Do this for the other side too. 

Now, open the zipper, and fold the lining pieces inside (ya know, make the wrong side of the fabric kiss each other now).  Press.  Make sure you press the seam along the zipper nice and crisp.  Note, if you're using a metal zipper those teeth get hot (yea, ask me how I know?!).  If you are using a plastic zipper . . . either reduce your iron to medium and/or put a pressing cloth over those teeth (on cheaper zippers they sometimes melt).  Yea, ask me why I know that . . . there was an iron, a zipper, and a nasty mess ions ago. 

After you've pressed a pretty zipper, put the edge foot on your machine.  

D) Making that zip functional 

Top-stitch along the edge of the zipper, on both sides.  Yes, you need to do this.  Why? If you don't the zipper will not open and close smoothly.  Yes, it gives a professional look, but really it is a matter of functionality.

An eighth to a quarter inch away from the edge is a good stitch range . . . honestly, I usually just leave the needle in the same position I used for the zip.  This falls under the lazy but efficient category.  It also falls under the oxymoron category, as well . . . I'm making my own makeup bag.  How lazy can I really be?

         

Tip: I use a three stitch for top-stitching.  I think it looks smoother.  

As for fears of top-stitching . . . eh, think of it like this: your foot has the guide in it, and as long as you keep it flush with the fabric you will be fine (see the pics).  

Always remember to back-stitch those ends. 

Looking at your piece it should look like this, or similar.  

Now, open and close that beautiful zipper a few times.  Have some wine.  Toast yourself on that beautiful zipper.  And, seriously, how easy was that?

E) Let's make this look like a bag!

First, open your zipper.  Yes, that's in bold.  I can't tell you how easy it is to forget that step.  

Match your corners and pin all the way around, leave and opening (three to four inches) in the center bottom of the lining.  My unpinned section is where my blue clippers are.  The size of that opening depends on how big your hand is.  So . . . three to four inches . . .

Tip: aligning the zip . . . fold it so that the pieces kiss each other and line up, as in you have one zipper piece lying on top of the other, and point the bulk of the zipper to the lining. 

Use your zipper foot (again, I leave the needle in the same position as I have since the zipper install).  

Starting at on edge of your opening, back-stitch and sew around the bag, ending on the opposite side of the opening.  Remember to back-stitch.  The seam allowance here is 3/4 of an inch.  

Tip: since your needle is adjusted for the zip foot just place your fabric edge on the half inch line.  Sew.  The difference of needle position will take your seam to 3/4 of an inch.  Though, in all fairness, haggling over 1/4 of an inch here is futile.  Though, this distance leaves enough on the ends of the tape to not have your needle eat teeth and . . . You'll get two curved edges up top.  

F) Gussets, or better known as Boxed Corners

These . . . okay, you can call it quits and skip to step G here . . . but, why short yourself?  Anyone can make a rectangle bag.  A bag with gussets gives it that umph and that "better than ready made" vibe.  

The first time I made these things, on a complicated bag I never used (true story) I thought I was going to die from the confusing instructions.  So . . . 

Start with the lining.  Take one corner and match the bottom seam to the side seam.  It will form a triangle.  Measure two inches from the point.  Draw a line if you need to . . . sew across.  

Tip: to line those seams up you can feel with your finger nail or push straight pins through each seam.  

Repeat for the other three corners.  

Now, have some wine.  Pick up your shears. Yes.  Trim the corner cutting ABOVE the sewn line about 1/4 of an inch.  (I'm a horrible person, I forgot to take of a photo of this step).  

G) Close her up!

Turn your bag right side out.  See, now aren't you glad you left the zip open?

Hand-stitch the opening closed, or be lazy and efficient. . . use your regular machine foot, re-center the needle, and stitch it closed with a zig zag close to the edge.  

Stuff the lining inside.  Fill with your stuff.  

Smile.  Finish that glass of wine.